The real deal: Can you tell the difference between mined and synthetic diamonds?

Synthetic diamonds have become increasingly difficult to distinguish from their mined counterparts, even to experts. These lab-grown gems have been around since the 1950s, but only recently have advances in production made them a feasible alternative in the market. They’re especially popular in engagement rings now, where buyers can save up to 90% compared to natural diamonds, depending on factors like carat weight and clarity. This price difference is particularly attractive to those wanting a bigger stone at a lower cost, though it can stir up emotional questions about the meaning and value behind the gift. Despite their identical chemical makeup, the traditional diamond industry has been slow and sometimes resistant to accept synthetic stones. Major players like De Beers initially explored the lab-grown market but eventually pulled out, widening the divide between mined and synthetic diamonds. Many prestigious dealers now insist on using only natural stones, reinforcing a kind of stigma even if the synthetic ones are essentially the same at a molecular level. Consumer attitudes, however, are shifting. A 2025 American survey showed that nearly three-quarters of people were open to lab-grown diamonds for engagement rings, with even higher acceptance for non-bridal jewelry. The watch industry has lagged behind jewelry in adopting these stones. Swiss brands, in particular, faced a “lingering taboo” for some time. TAG Heuer was among the first to feature lab-grown diamonds in a concept watch in 2022, which got a lot of attention. Since then, other brands like Oris and Raymond Weil have integrated lab-grown stones more regularly, offering watches with diamond bezels at prices comparable to those with natural stones. Some brands see lab-grown diamonds as part of a broader strategy to attract younger buyers who prioritize sustainability and transparency. Breitling, for instance, has pledged to use only lab-grown stones going forward, partly in response to stricter European regulations on supply chain reporting. Smaller independent brands also highlight benefits like consistent quality, easier logistics, and fewer customs hurdles compared to mined diamonds. For example, Furlan Marri’s co-founder mentioned that lab-grown stones allowed them to offer more accessible pricing and maintain uniformity in size for larger production runs. Efforts to boost the prestige of lab-grown diamonds continue. Swiss-based Ammil is working to certify their stones as ‘Swiss Made’ to associate them with the country’s reputation for quality, while maintaining sustainable practices in their production. Another innovative approach comes from VRAI, a brand linking synthetic diamonds to cryptocurrencies like Bitcoin, turning the gems into tokens that represent digital assets. These moves aim to overcome the main drawback of lab-grown stones: their theoretically unlimited supply, which can dilute their luxury appeal. Overall, the use of synthetic diamonds in the watch world is growing steadily. As more brands experiment with these stones for both creative and practical reasons, the line between natural and lab-grown gems continues to blur. Whether this trend will fully erase the stigma around lab-grown diamonds or carve out a distinct niche remains to be seen, but it’s clear they’re here to stay and changing the landscape of luxury goods.